Supply store review: Suma Beads Gems & Pearls

I've been shopping for beads and gemstones in New York City for more than a year now. I'd always go to the same stores on the 6th Ave and it's getting boring and routine. I've always wanted to discover new stores, especially for pearls and gemstones. Genuine Ten Ten is just too expensive and they don't have a lot of gemstone options. One day as I was hunting for citrine heart briolettes, I ran into some gemstone stores on 37th St. There are two gemstone stores run by Indian whole sellers. As you know, India produces a lot of high quality gemstones. As soon as I saw the stores, I had to dash inside to take a look. So in this entry I'll do a mini review of one of the stores - the one where I bought my citrine stones.

PRODUCTS
I took a picture of the store front from across the street. This store is located at the corner of 6th Ave / 37th St. From this picture you can already see a huge collection of gemstones hanging on the wall. Most of the precious and semi-precious gemstone beads are in the back of the store. Some strands are marked with price tags, some aren't. The strands without price tags are priced by weight. I bought my citrine from this store. As far as the quality is concerned, they're not the AAA highest quality, but with some digging and patience, you can find some A-AA quality gemstones for a pretty good price. They do wholesale and retail. If you have your tax ID, you could get the wholesale price. I didn't have my tax ID with me at the time and they still gave me a small discount. I was happy about it.

In the middle of the store, on the display tables, there is a HUGE collection of pearls of all kind. You can also find new arrivals and discounted items there too. The staff are nice - at least they were nice to me. There was another customer in the store at the time I was shopping. This customer was bargaining with the store owner on the phone and her tone of voice didn't sound very nice. However, the staff managed to remain polite and nice so I think they did a very good job.

Here is a picture of the citrine 10mm heart briolettes I got. Champagne yellow and orange-ish flares. The color is more intense in person. Good clarity. Good reflection of light (they really sparkle and I love using them for my jewelry). No internal fracture. Overall very good quality.

PRICE
All gemstones and pearls are sold in strands so you have to buy wholesale volumes. For the citrine that I bought, I think I got them at a good price. There is a bunch of pearls and gemstones that are on discount. I believe if you spend enough time browsing in the store, you will get something quality at good prices.

MY THOUGHTS
For gemstones, you might be able to get better prices online, but I'd rather buy from physical stores, especially after I found Suma. It's not just about touching and examining the stones in person. From my experience buying gemstones online, you pay for expensive shipping (because gemstones are heavy) and wait for a LONG time when you order directly from Indian manufacturers. International shipping takes a long time. Sometimes the gemstones may turn out to be different from your expectation. After doing that for several times, I thought it's really not worth it, especially when you're running a business and you don't want to gamble on the quality of your products. I'm glad I found this store. I'll definitely go to them when I need gemstones.

Jewelry material: Rhodium

What is rhodium?

Rhodium is a naturally occurring metal element. It is frequently used in the jewelry trade as a surface plating to make silver items more resistant to tarnishing. Rhodium is slightly darker than silver and gives items a more "steely" look.

Jewelry material: Gold-filled

What is Gold-Filled?

Gold-filled is a United States layered gold product that is gaining popularity throughout the Americas, Asia and Europe. It is a quality material that is common in all types of jewelry. The product is easy to care for and will usually maintain its golden shine for a lifetime.

Gold-filled is constructed in two or three layers. The core metal is jewelers’ brass. A gold alloy is then bonded to one or both surfaces of the brass core with heat and pressure. The bonded raw material is then sold as sheet or wire to jewelry manufacturers for use in designs.

Gold-filled is legally required to contain 5% or 1/20 gold by weight. This 5% is then described by the karatage of the gold alloy. Most gold-filled is 12kt or 14kt gold-filled. It is most accurately labeled with the karatage, the “/” symbol, and then 20 to reflect this construction. Products are identified as 14/20 Gold-filled or 12/20 Gold-Filled; alternatively, 14kt Gold-Filled or 12kt Gold-Filled are also acceptable.

Care and Cleaning
Gold-filled does not de-laminate or peel like plated products. Nor does it tarnish as readily as silver. Many owners find that they never have to clean gold-filled items at all. However, from time to time your jewelry may become dirty from everyday wear. To clean gold-filled it is best to use mild soap and water. Hot weather and water will not damage the material.

Gold-filled cannot be melted because it is a layered product. Similarly, exposure to chemicals or acids will damage the gold layers and erode the product’s integrity. Gold-filled is not recommended in extremely humid environments where there are also high levels of pollutants in the air. This is not a problem in any US states we know of, but we have had reported problems in South-Central Mexico and parts of Asia.

Comparison with Other Gold Products
Solid Gold – Solid gold is an alloy that is described with the karatage of pure gold. Pure gold is 24kt. However, it is much too soft to hold its shape or wear well. Therefore, it is mixed or alloyed with other metals to make it harder and easier to work with. Karatage refers to the alloy’s purity. For example, 8 karat gold is 8/24 pure gold or 33.3% pure. Gold-filled is not the same as solid gold. It is a layered alternative product. The gold-filled karatage only refers to the gold layers that compose 5% of the product on the surface.

Gold Plate – Gold plating is a miniscule layer of solid gold applied to a brass base. The plating does not compose any measurable proportion of the products total weight. It is estimated to be 0.05% or less of the metal product. Gold plating will wear off rather quickly and expose the brass base product. It does not stand up to heat, water or wear over time.

Inspiration from Stella & Dot: DIY version of the Medina Bib Necklace

I was looking for ways to get rid of my filigree brass settings and I came across the Medina Bib Necklace from Stella & Dot. Inspired by the silver plated medallions, I decided to use my gold plated filigree settings to create a DIY version of this necklace. I gathered 2 sizes of filigree settings, arranged them on the table to the way I want, and connected them carefully using 24k gold filled jump rings. For this project, I decided to go with the smallest jump rings possible so that the final look could look more elegant and polished.

Here are pictures of the final product and how I style with this piece - I'm just wearing a plain cotton grey top with a black blazer. The bib necklace totally pops my outfit and makes me feel expensive & fabulous:

For a fraction of the retail value of $89, I created my own version of the bib necklace and it is just as elegant as the one sold on S&D. It is available in my etsy store here.

Vintage Trifari Jewelry: Collector's Information

WHO IS TRIFARI?

Since the 1920s, Trifari has been one of the most respected and admired producers of costume jewelry in the United States. Founded in the 1910s by Gustavo Trifari, the Italian-immigrant son of a Napoli goldsmith, the company has designed jewelry that’s been worn by countless high-profile clients, from Mamie Eisenhower to Madonna.

The success of Trifari, and the reason for its collectibility today, is most often credited to French designer Alfred Philippe, the company’s chief designer from 1930 until 1968. His use of invisible settings for stones, which he originally developed for Van Cleef and Arpels, added a level of craftsmanship and technique that had not been previously seen in costume jewelry.

Among Philippe’s countless contributions are the Trifari Crown pins from the late 1930s to the 1950s. The crowns were so popular that Trifari incorporated a crown into its mark in about 1937. Authentic Trifari jewelry is typically marked with "Jewels by Trifari," "TKF" (for Trifari, Krussman & Fishel), or "Trifari," depending on when it was made.


Some of the Trifari Crown pins feature eye-catching, brightly colored cabochons. Others are composed entirely of clear crystal rhinestones for a monochromatic effect. Naturally, a series of Coronation Gems was produced in 1953 to celebrate the ascendancy of Elizabeth II to the British throne.


Trifari’s Jelly Belly pins of seals, poodles, roosters, and other animals appeared in the 1940s. Each animal’s "belly" consists of a solid Lucite "pearl" with settings of sterling silver or gold plate. Although any Jelly Belly from this decade is going to command a good price, the poodles are especially rare.


Other categories of vintage Trifari costume jewelry to look for are the vintage floral pins from the 1930s and the fruit and vegetable pieces from the 1950s. In particular, collectors like the miniature fruit pins (apples, pineapples, grape bunches, and strawberries, to name a few) from the late 1950s through the 1960s. These single pieces, usually finished in a matte silver or gold, were worn by themselves or in groups. Also popular are the patriotic pins from the 1940s of American flags and red-white-and-blue eagles.


Like all manufacturers during World War II, Trifari was unable to use metal in its products due to rationing. This forced Trifari to switch to sterling silver during the war, which tripled prices for Trifari products (although that didn’t seem to hurt sales). Post-war, Trifari wanted to go back to less costly, maintenance-free metal, but its audience was now used to silver. To hype the return to a cheaper base metal, the company began advertising a "revolutionary" new metal called Trifanium, which was a made-up name for their basic metal — unlike silver, it could be given a no-polish rhodium finish.


The campaign worked so well that by 1953, Mamie Eisenhower felt perfectly comfortable to break with tradition and wear costume jewelry to the inaugural ball. To match the First Lady’s pink satin gown (studded with 2,000 rhinestones), Alfred Philippe designed an "orientique" pearl choker with matching three-stranded bracelet and earrings, each laden with eight pearls. Three sets were made: one for the First Lady, a second for the Smithsonian, and a third for the Trifari archives. Mrs. Eisenhower was so pleased with the ensemble that she had Trifari make jewelry for her second inaugural ball in 1957.


Key terms for Vintage Trifari Costume Jewelry
Cabochon: A stone that has been shaped and polished instead of faceted. It usually has a flat back and a shape that is round or oval.


The Trifari Mark
Seeing the mark is important for a collector, as it helps to date the piece. Here are pictures of the Trifari Mark over time:

The Trifari Crown Symbol

Trifari used a Crown Symbol over the "T" as a type of logo. It appeared on boxes, tags, and cards and was stamped onto most of the pieces produced from the 1940's through the 1960's. Usually all pieces of a set included the crown, with the exception of necklaces with hook clasps - often there was only room for the name "Trifari" on the hook. When sellers identify a pieces a "Crown Trifari" it means the piece was stamped with this symbol (see photos of Trifari paper tag and stamped clasp below).

Trifari PAT. PEND.

This is one of the earliest Trifari marks you will see (there were a couple of earlier signatures, but they are quite rare). Prior to 1955 the U.S. copyright law did not extend protection to jewelry designs, so the major manufacturers, who employed talented jewelry designers, protected their investment with U.S. patents. As soon as a design was completed, it was submitted to the U.S. patent office and a patent was applied for. This process normally took a few months, so the jewelry would be stamped PAT. PEND. to advise that a patent application for the design was filed (see photo below).

The photo above shows an early Trifari PAT. PEND. signature. Many of these signatures also included the Trifari Crown symbol over the "T."

Crown Trifari with Copyright Symbol

As mentioned previously, in 1955 revisions to the U.S. Patent Law allowed jewelry designs to be copyrighted using the copyright symbol. Trifari then started using the copyright symbol in its signature. Pieces of that era will have both the Crown and Copyright symbols in the signature, which was used in the late 1950's to late 1960's. The photos below show a Trifari Crown signature with the copyright symbol. Many of the most highly sought after vintage Trifari pieces have this signature (see photo below). They are called "CROWN TRIFARI" by dealers and collectors.

Note that the lack of a copyright symbol on a piece does not guarantee that was produced prior to1955. At the time of the copyright law change Trifari had a number of necklace, bracelet, and earring clasps that it continued to use for several years until the stock of these ran out. As a general rule, however, at least one piece of a set would include the copyright symbol.

Trifari with Copyright Symbol (no Crown)

In the 1970's and 1980's Trifari changed their signature by removing the crown symbol and switching to a slanted text. The copyright symbol was retained to protect the designs. The photo below shows the signature used during this era.

Mixed Trifari Marks

As mentioned, Trifari, like many other jewelry manufacturers, would continue to use its stock of clasps after signatures were changed, so it's not uncommon to see pieces with mixed signatures. For example, in the 1970's and 1980's Trifari made quite a few earring designs that were available as both clips and as posts for pierced ears. Clip earrings made during that time period may be stamped on the back with the 1970's-1980's Trifari Copyright signature, like the post versions were, but the clips might have the Crown Trifari signature, since Trifari would continue to use the older clasps until they were used up. Trifari would also use up the old necklace and bracelet clasps, so was not uncommon to see the Crown Trifari signature on the clasp, while the piece itself was stamped with the later Trifari Copyright, as in the photo below. This photo shows the back of a Trifari pendant necklace, where the pendant is signed with the Trifari Copyright signature, while the clasp is stamped Crown Trifari.

Trifari TM, Trifari TM Dated, Trifari TM Limited Editions

In the 1990's Trifari offered many high quality pieces for sale on QVC. Many of these used original Trifari designs from the 1940's and 1950's. Technically, vintage items are those that are 25 years old or older, but many collectors include Trifari TM pieces because they are the last of the signed Trifari pieces, with high quality and stunning designs. Pieces of this era were signed "TRIFARI" followed by the trademark symbol. Some were dated, and some were dated and also Limited Editions. The Limited Editions were packaged with a special card that indicated how many copies of the piece were made (usually 350 or 500). It's rare to find one with its original box and card. The Trifari Safari Series was a very popular Limited Edition line with jungle animals. The photos below show a Trifari trademark signature, a Trifari trademark signature with a date, and a Trifari Safari Piece, with its original box and Limited Edition card.

(Information and image sources: Collector's Weekly and eBay Guides)